Calcio Storico

Every year on June 24^th, Florence celebrates the feast of its patron saint, John the Baptist. On this day several festivities take place including parades, Rowing club competition along the Arno river and fireworks. Though the most anticipated event of the day is Calcio Florentino, a mix between football and rugby. Though there is a good bit of bare-knuckle boxing and wrestling in the sport as well. As a result Calcio Storico is not a game for those who don’t like the sight of blood. This game can be traced as far back as the 16^th century Italy and every year this game is played in the middle of Piazza Santa Croce. Early in the day workers begin to setup the arena spreading sand across the Piazza and building stands for the spectators to watch.

History tells us that during the 1500s there were four teams that participated. The Bianchi, Verdi, Rossi, and Azzurri all partake in this historical event and each of these teams represents the different districts of Florence- Santo Spirito, San Giovanni, Santa Maria Novella and Santa Croce.

Over the centuries not a lot has changed in the way Calcio Storico is played. Players still dress in traditional costume and parade around the city, eventually finding there way to the Piazza. Before each game a procession occurs in which many of the citizens dressed in popular costumes of the medieval time period perform a ceremonial act. Durring this time they play several different songs of the city of Florence and eventually introduce the two teams.

The game is played between two teams made up of 27 players. The field is essentially a giant sand pit with a goal on both ends. There is one main referee, six linesmen, and a field master who only intervenes when things become too violent, such as a kick to the head. The game is played for 50 minutes with the winner of the game being the one who has scored the most points. There are not breaks during the game. Even serious injury does not stop the game. If a player is hurt, a medical team will come onto the field and put him on a stretcher and carry him off the field while the game is still being played. At the end of the game the winners receive a pile of steaks that are equivalent to that of a white calf.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sm2hgqa-2ws - (video of Calcio Storico)

I felt that it was interesting that they divided the teams into the separate areas of the cities, distinguishing the different territory within the city. When I asked one of the locals what determines the different territories he said that the Arno River that runs through Florence is a major divider between the two teams that played that day. It was also interesting seeing the passion between the two sides because when we got there it was obvious where each of the teams’ supporters were supposed to sit.

Many of the fans were very passionate about the game. Some brought blue and white flares into the arena that represented the different teams. Additionally, I found it interesting that such a violent game would be played as a celebration of the city’s patron saint.

In my opinion there can’t be a better way to end a seven-week trip abroad than by experiencing the cities of Italy. I was lucky enough to go to Florence and Rome for four short days and come back with a lasting love for the Italian culture. Through my encounters what I found most fascinating was Italy’s effort to globalize their economy but at the same time preserve the massive amounts of history and tradition that exists in the country. I noticed this divergence in many circumstances for example at a nice Italian restaur

ant in Florence, the Vatican in Rome, and the language barrier in general which was prevalent in both cities.

Of course, before coming to Italy I heard about all of the historical and tourist sights that were important to see including the Coliseum, Trevi Fountain, The Spanish Steps, The

Vatican, The Duomo, David and many more. However, Florence proved to be so much more than just the significant monuments that were there. Their culture was like no other I had seen on my travels thus far. It is a city with plenty of monuments and history that has been conserved for years, as well as a city with a new lively tourist based economy. There are leather or food markets on almost every street you turn, and their primary customers are tourists.

One night we happened to find this very nice Italian restaurant on a little side street for dinner. The reason we chose this specific place was because the atmosphere looked so authentic. We had been around so many tourist attractions all day so we wanted to get a sense of the “real” Florence. This little hole in the wall restaurant had a beautiful terrace with oil, Parmesan cheese, flowers, and wine glasses carefully placed on each table to set the mood. A few minutes after we sat down and stopped a

dmiring the fascinating Italian pictures on the walls, we heard familiar music. I soon realized the American pop song Hot N Cold by Kate Perry was playing in what we thought was an authentic Italian restaurant. I was in pure shock and kept thinking maybe it will just be this one song. However, the American pop songs continued to play. We heard everything from Cold Play to Rihanna. The atmosphere was completely ruined by this music, however it served as an example of how globalization is affecting these European countries.

This idea of globalization mixed in with historical preservation was also demonstrated as I arrived at the massive Vatican in Rome. As one has to know when they arrive at the Vatican, the lines to see the monument go on forever. The only way to avoid the lines is to pay for a private tour. So when we finally made it up to the line, tour guides surrounded us trying to sell their tour. They always began with, “Do you speak English?” There is one specific girl I remember talking to I remember because she tried to persuade us by complementing our clothes and saying she is from the states as well. When we were still hesitant about taking the tour she offered us an English tour guide instead of an Italian one assuming we would like that better. I found all of this fascinating because several of the tour groups happened to be run by Americans, so that American tourists could understand the information. So globalization can be seen everywhere and clearly plays a significant role in the language barrier as well as the nations economy.

Although I could see this theme of globalization through Rome and Florence, I also experienced the Italians desire to preserve the monuments and the history that the country

has to offer. For example, the monuments are to be respected so police patrol around all of the monuments to ensure this high value. When I visit the Trevi Fountain there was a vandalism act where someone through a bottle filled with orange paint into the clear beautiful fountain. It was apparent how upset people were by this selfish act. This monuments and its history mean a lot to the people of Rome. They have maintained its beauty and symbolism for so many years and will continue to do the same in the future. So in the end we cannot tell which of these two different ideas serves greater importance in Italy, it is just interesting to look at how the both coexist in this gorgeous country.

http://www.google.com/hostednews/afp/article/ALeqM5jJvt0bbVwOeGG-FUxLEM4NHuq-Tw

http://www.vaticantour.com/

http://www.allbusiness.com/government/3583896-1.html

Milan has been one of my favorite places so far because it is a city that is known primarily for it’s shopping but while I was there I discovered so much more. We decided because we were not as familiar with the city as we had been with other places to do a bus tour that allowed us to get off and see so much more of this history then just shopping. My first impression was that the Milan is a lot quieter and does not get the bustle of tourist through their small towns. The things about Milan that I loved were the old churches, which were some of the most interesting places I have been. They are nothing like the churches in the states, with relics of saints and priests that had once served in the church. Along with having relics I felt a sense of pride and value from the people who we came in contact with. For some parts of Milan the church was the main and focus and has not stopped being. We were able to go on a tour of one of these churches that had crypt’s that had been excavated and we were able to actually see where they had been dug up. They were the actual stones. It was very eye opening realize how important these churches and these relics were to the people in the towns. The woman at the front desk was very helpful and she made us understand how sacred everything we would be seeing was. The last and most magnificent cathedral that we saw was the Milan's Duomo which is the second largest Catholic cathedral in the world: only Seville Cathedral is larger and St. Peter's Basilica doesn't count because it's not a cathedral. Milan Cathedral is 157 meters long and 40,000 people can fit comfortably within. This is a very big tourist site but once I was inside the cathedral everyone was silent and just took on this very peaceful mannerisms. It was beautiful inside; I had never seen a church or cathedral that was large. The Duomo of Milan has both Gothic and neo-Gothic architecture, for the Gothic west front was begun in 1616 and completed 200 years later. Only in its details does it reveal its Baroque and Neo-Classical date. From 1900 some of the less Gothic details of the facade were replaced in a true Gothic style, to designs of Giuseppe Brentano. http://www.sacred-destinations.com/italy/milan-cathedral Mass takes place there at least once a day and still under construction continuously to maintain the structure. The roof climb provides a unique and memorable opportunity to walk high on the roofs of the huge Gothic cathedral. The views are magnificent and the opportunity to see the pinnacles and sculptures close up along the way is worth the climb alone. While we were not able to do the climb to any one that goes there I think that it is a must and I am sad that I did not have the opportunity to do it myself. Overall Milan was a place I will recommend to all.

Rugby gone Wild

Hearing about a festival in Florence, Italy that had to do with rugby, I was not expecting what I experienced on June 24 at 7pm in the middle of the Piazza Santa Croce. There was a huge stadium set up with bleachers surrounding a field of sand, screaming fans, one side wearing all blue and another side wearing all white. We took our seats and my heart was beating pretty fast with anticipation of what was going to happen next…

The day starts off with a parade around the different plazas throughout the city with around 100 or so men dressed up in medieval costumes, holding flags and guns, marching to the beat of the drums. We got the most pleasant wake up call at about 8am of the drum parade making its way around the city. This event happens once a year and we were lucky enough to be apart of its festivities for the day. The festival is in the honor of St. John, the patron saint of the city. The event is called “Calcio Storico Fiorentino,” or “Historical soccer from Florence,” originated in Florence around 1200-1300 AD. It served as a competition for many of the nobleman in the area at the time and it was seen as ok because violence and death were accepted back then. The fighting that goes on during these games can date back to when the Gladiators fought during Roman times. The players and the men in the parade wore clothes that represented what was worn in the 15^th century. In an article I read about the annual event, even popes such as Clement VII, Leo XI and Urban VIII are said to have enjoyed the bloody game. However, in the last few years, the game has been seen as too violent because of the fights that have broke out in the middle of the game and was actually banned for the entire year of 2007 as punishment for their “unacceptable behavior.”

My friends and I sat down and waited for all of the members of the parade to line up on the field and then it was time for the two rugby teams to enter the arena. The crowd was going wild and I was having a hard time just taking it all in. There I was sitting in front of one of the most beautiful churches I have ever seen and I was about to watch big hefty men tear each other to shreds for possession of the ball and trying to win for their “side” of he city. Wearing blue meant you were from one side of the river and wearing white meant you were from the opposite side of the river. The parades of medieval men were summoned off the field and it was time to begin the match. There were 27 muscled and shirtless players on the field from each team and I knew from that point on I was in for a real surprise. The whistle was blown and I was shocked at all the hitting, punching, tackling that went on in the first minute of the game. I was seriously in my own little world trying to keep up with what was going on. The ball was being tossed from player to player but then that player would get pounded into the ground and the next player, white or blue would pick up the ball and run. Men from opposing teams were tackling and fighting all over the field while referees were trying to break up the major punch throwing also going on.

A couple of times during the match, a stretcher made its way onto the field, but no one on the field even noticed. The game continued on as a member of the white team was carried off the field in agony. The gruesome game went on for about 50 minutes and by the time it was over I had to sit down for a good 10 minutes and take in what I had just witnessed. Nothing like that would ever be played in the United States.

The event was more than just a game and some hitting; it was a major symbol for

Italy and city of Florence and the specific neighborhoods playing in the match. The blue team ended up dominating the white team and I even saw one of the blue team members crying to one of his buddies. I was in awe that a man of his size was getting emotional over something like this, but it just made me realize how much nationalism and pride went into this one game. People from Florence and even people from all over Italy take pride in this event and have for centuries.

http://www.lifeinitaly.com/sport/soccer-origins.asp

http://www.aboutflorence.com/folkloristic-in-Florence.html

(Map of where the Piazza di Santa Croce is located)

Lion, Tigers, and Gladiators...Oh My!

I am extremely fortunate to have had the opportunity to travel Europe the past six weeks. I have learned to navigate trains, buses, discount airlines and hostiles. I have also learned that things don’t always go as planned and last minute flexibility is an important aspect of the traveling Europe, the worlds most important tourist region. For my last weekend traveling Europe, my friends and I agreed that Italy would be the perfect final destination.

When I first arrived in Rome I could not help but think about everything I have learned over the summer about the Roman Empire. I was standing in the city that was the beginning and end of the Roman Empire, which ruled Europe for over one thousand years. I will admit Rome was exhausting sharing the sidewalks and streets with 2.8 million locals along with thousands of other tourists. However, the museums, medieval churches, ancient temples, and amazing Baroque fountains were worth the long lines, crowds, and some of the strongest body odors I had ever smelled! I enjoyed each place I visited in Rome, but I believe the Colosseum symbolized the ancient city.

When I arrived at the Colosseum, I couldn’t believe I was finally looking at the famous landmark of the eternal city. The structure was enormous and made every other ruin in Rome look dwarfed in comparison. Within seconds of arriving at the Colosseum, my friends and I were approached and asked if we wanted a tour in English. Besides information from our Baedekers we did not know much about this important Roman ruin so we decided to join the tour.

The Colosseum is an amphitheatre located in the center of Rome. It was built on a site of an artificial lake and was part of a massive park. Construction started around 72 AD under the reign of the Emperor Vespasian and was completed by the emperor Titus in 80 AD. It was built in the heart of Rome, as a gift to the people of Rome by the Emperor because he realized he was elected and ruled by the consent of the people. The Colosseum was the largest structure built in the Roman Empire. It is 188 by 166 meters with a height of 48 meters and was and continues to be famous for its Roman architecture style. I also learned that the current name of the amphitheater came from the nearby Colossus statue of Nero, which no longer stands by the structure because it was probably melted down for its bronze after Nero’s reign.
Once I was standing inside the structure, it seemed even larger than it did from the outside. I felt as if I were melting standing in the Colosseum in the hot summer sun I couldn’t imagine being part of the 50,000 spectators crowed in the Colosseum to watch the bloody battles. The large size was necessary for large and growing city during the rise of the Roman Empire. Emperors used the Colosseum to entertain the public. The floor no longer exist so I could see all of the underground passages and brick cells that once held animals keeping them without food or water for weeks. I could also see platforms that were used to bring the animals to arena level where they were set free to attack other animals and human slaves. Gladiator competitions were also popular fights that ended in blood and death. After gladiator contests were outlawed sometime around 438 AD, the Colosseum was used for several different purposes in the centuries that followed. By the renaissance era the theatre was being used as a quarry to supply the stones from the structure to renaissance buildings around the city of Rome.

After visiting the Colosseum it was evident that even though only a small portion of the structure still exists, the Colosseum is Rome’s most recognizable classical building. I am very glad we decided to take a tour because if we had not we would have been taking pictures of ruins we knew very little about. I can see why this amazing structure is one of the 7 Wonders of the World!

I would highly recommend an English tour of the Colosseum. The following link has has several different options of tours. http://www.viator.com/Rome/d511/the-colosseum?pref=02&aid=g1999

The Flavian Ampitheater Exposed

Over the centuries, Rome has been the most influential city in shaping political and economic powers in the world. Dating back to 753 BC, the intense and overwhelming history is difficult to fully comprehend. While visiting this world city I was hoping to see and experience this history through the ruins, monuments, and urban landscape. While there is not a shortage of sites to see, there was a shortage in time. In realizing this unfortunate reality, I would advise visitors to write down their top sites to see and leave the other sites for a future return trip. Once you’ve narrowed your list, it’s time to finally see the Colosseum you saw in Gladiator or the Pantheon you learned about in history class Our first must-see stop was the gem of Rome; the Colosseum. We could see it at the end of the main street standing tall and proud. It was just as you see in magazines; the skeleton of a famous amphitheater with architraves that have witnessed countless battles, dramas, and reenactments. The worn pale grey stone ellipse decorated with layers of round arches, engaged columns and string course all fit together like one large tiered architectural cake. This architectural spectacle built in the 1^st century AD exemplifies the power, skill, and growth of the Roman Empire. The geographical landscape was ideal due to the flat ground snug between 2 hills. Originally there was a lake made around the structure to accentuate the site. The lake was later filled in and developed. Streets form an organic radial star around this monument and other major structures such a

s the Arch of Constantine, Foro Romano, and Domus Aurea. This shows that even today, this powerful structure continues to stand its ground between the grid of the busy streets filled with tour buses and vespas. The Colosseum was not only site to entertainment and public social status during Roman times, but also held religious significance. Only a hundred yards away from the Colosseum stands the Arch of Constantine; erected in 315 AD as a symbol of Constantine’s end to long history of Christian persecutions. The location of the arch says a lot about the importance of location and the significant ties it has to buildings and their past. The Arch of Constantine is a symbol of peace and religious relief, standing next to the Flavian Amphitheater (Colosseum); site of countless Christian executions. It is interesting to think about why the Colosseum is today one of the most recognizable symbols of Rome and Italy. Why do 3.9 million people visit it each year? Is it to see where thousands died painful, bloody deaths? Is it to see where Christians were burned at the stake? Is it to appreciate the architecture and structural qualities? Or is it to check another major attraction off your bucket list? I think it’s unknown for many until they actually visit. You can’t fully get the appreciation or understanding for such a masterpiece such as the Colosseum until you have visited it. Even more incredible is the broader view of other famous monuments and ruins Rome has to offer. Just in this one example of the Colosseum, one can see how complex its history and influence is. By visiting other famous landmarks in this city one can slowly piece together Roman history and revisit its past. The Flavian Amphitheater is the centerpiece of Roman history and world influence that has lasted for centuries and continues to be an international icon for Rome. Visiting these landmarks gives one an even greater appreciation for travel and opportunity to experience such wonders.

Useful sites:

http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/ancient/romans/colosseum_01.shtml

http://www.roman-colosseum.info/index.htm

http://www.the-colosseum.net/idx-en.htm

http://www.italyguides.it/us/roma/colosseum.htm

Think I can- Vatican

The long weekend of travel to Italy turned out to be one of my favorite European visits to date. With five days of amazing travels to Venice, Florence, and Rome, the trip was full of sightseeing and beautiful scenery. After looking back on Italy, I realize that one of the most interesting parts of Italy for me was Vatican City.

Arriving at Vatican City on a hot Saturday afternoon, my group was just happy to finally get some relief from the torturous heat. We felt that the Vatican Museum would be extremely interesting and of course air conditioned. After just a few minutes of walking from our bus location to the museum, we were approached by several English speaking tour guides that promoted various tour options to us. We decided that after a day of heat and bus travel, the two hour tour that one guide had offered would be our best option. After the decision was finalized and our $35 fee paid, we trudged up the hill behind the Vatican Museum to a back entrance with our tour guide. Our tour guide was a tall dark haired American man that looked to be in his mid 30’s. Right from the start, he began guiding us through various museum galleries and continually talked nonstop with a sort of enthusiasm I had to admire.

In one of the outer gardens we stopped to talk about Vatican City in greater detail. Before the information was given, I thought of Vatican City in terms of the Vatican Museum and the Sistine Chapel. To me, it was a simple location that held famous historical elements of Rome’s past. I never really thought of it as a sovereign city state with its own national identity. I quickly learned from the information given that Vatican City goes far past the museums and churches tourists are drawn to. Physically, Vatican City is surrounded by tall brick walls and spans for around 100 acres. Located on the Western side of Rome, Vatican City has its own government, military, and even a specialized currency. Governmentally, the city is set up as a monarchial society with the head of state being the Pope. Under the Pope, high Catholic clergymen are appointed governmental positions to carry out executive and legislative matters. In addition to governmental autonomy, Vatican City employs its own military defense, the Swiss Guard. Founded in 1506 by Pope Julius II, the Swiss Guard was originally hired to act as body guards to the Pope. Prerequisites for being a guard in Vatican City include being Catholic, male, and Swiss. Today, over 100 guards still serve as the main defensive force in the city. The last quality that makes Vatican City unique is its economy. Being a city based on traditional values, the economy is not commercialized and relies on tourism for financial support (check out how much the U.S. trades with this city: http://www.census.gov/foreign-trade/balance/c4752.html). It contains its own church and has a differentiated form of the euro which depicts the current Pope on one side of the coin. All of these factors make Vatican City a symbol of tradition within Rome (for more info on Vatican City: www.populstat.info/Europe/Vaticang.htm)

Overall, the Vatican is truly a unique City that seems to be preserving traditional values of the Catholic Church and the Holy Roman Empire. As my tour guide discussed the information above, I thought back to the numerous articles we have read discussing nationalism and national identity. Vatican City can be viewed as perhaps one of the most traditional cities present in today’s world. It contains political, religious, and economic entities that set it apart from Italy and Europe in general (Check this interpretation out: http://www.nationalgeographic.com/traveler/articles/1042vatican_city.html). People living within Vatican City identify themselves with strong Catholic values and support the Pope led monarch. Likewise, when speaking about Vatican Cities tourist driven economy I thought back to the reading relating to tourism and the shaping of nations. Relying on almost solely tourist purchases, Vatican City is just one more competitor in the tourist market. It shows that even traditional markets can be shaped by tourism.

To future students, my main recommendation would be to splurge on a Vatican Museum tour. Throughout this trip, I have questioned if tour fees are worth paying. For the Vatican Museum, a tour guide is a must unless you know all of the information. Having someone describe to you the history behind the art work makes the museum far more interesting and efficient. In addition, eat a meal in Vatican City so you can witness a bit of what you have just learned. The food is amazing and it is fun to see tourists, Swiss guards, and priests walking intermixed down the streets.